Friday, October 30, 2009

Norfolk, VA to Elizabeth City, NC

We had a great visit in Norfolk and were underway by 7:30 in the morning. It was a gray and overcast day all day, but at least it didn't rain. The ICW offers you two choices when you leave Norfolk. One is to take the Albermarle and Chesapeake Canal to the North Landing River to Currituck Sound, with a cut through to Albermarle Sound, or to take the Great Dismal Swamp to Albermarle Sound. Both routes join back up in the Albermarle Sound and the ICW is one route south again from there. The past two years we have taken the Albemarle and Chesapeake Canal route, also known as the Virginia Cut. We decided that this year we would travel the Great Dismal Swamp route.

The Dismal Swamp route has two locks instead of one with about a 12 foot drop/rise at each, compared to only one lock on the A & C Canal with only a one foot drop/rise. That was a lot more challenging for us. I found that it was much harder doing the rise that doing the drop. I had to keep pressure on our lines the whole rise. My muscles were sure sore the next day.

Unfortunately, it was a dismal day on the Dismal Swamp. Overcast the whole day. It is so narrow in places, I could have added to my leaf collection by just sticking my hand out and picking them off the trees! It was still a pretty way to travel as many leaves were in color. I'm just glad we never had to pass anyone coming from the opposite direction as it sure is narrow.


View of the Dismal Swamp behind us

We stopped for the night at the North Carolina Visitor Center which serves both water visitors and automobile traffic on Route 17. There is a nice little museum across a foot bridge on the other side of the canal showing the flora and fauna of the swamp area. Another room has stuffed animals found in the swamp. We took the boardwalk they have built into the swamp a short way until it ended to see the swamp and returned back to the boat.


Visitor Center Sign

At this visitor center, there is only a 150 foot long dock to tie up to, so boats have to raft up beside other boats. We tied up next to one sailboat and another sailboat tied up to us. We ended up with 10 boats all tied up in rafts to a 150 dock wall. At 5, we all gathered for cocktails at a picnic table in our warm coats as it was pretty chilly. We gathered wood and started a fire in the barbecue grill provided which was tended by all the teenagers of which there were around 4. One boat also had a 10 week old baby aboard! That was a very brave couple. They also had another child who was about 3 aboard too!


Boats rafted at the visitor center dock

I spent the rest of the night back on board trying out my new snuggie that I bought for this year's trip down the ICW. I wore it backward to keep my back warm as I walked around the boat. It is brown and I looked like a "Wookie" from Star Wars!
I slept under the snuggle, two polar fleece blankets, the bedspread, and a sheet, wearing my hooded sweatshirt, polar fleece pants and socks! Then, I was finally warm enough to sleep.

I woke up at 6:50 hearing voices outside the boat on the dock, so even though it was still dark, we got up and prepared to leave. We needed to be underway so that all the boats could get make the 8 O'Clock lock opening. We all made it through the lock just fine. Although it was still partly cloudy, the sun was out and warmed up the boat.

We tied up at the Elizabeth City dock and when all the boats came through that day, we ended up with another boat rafted to us and another to it the day after that. Elizabeth City advertises itself as a "Harbor of Hospitality" city, and it is certainly friendly to boaters. There were people helping us with lines and answering our questions regarding where to get water, take our trash, restaurants, etc. That afternoon, they had a wine and cheese get-together with the Mayor of Elizabeth City at the dock. It was put on by the Visitor Center and they were there also to answer our questions as well.


Harbor sign


View of City docks from pilot house

Saturday, there was a little Farmer's Market on shore right off the boat. When I woke up and looked out, they were putting all the tents around the square for the vendors who arrived later. I purchased a couple of nice tomatoes and some jewelry.


Farmer's Market setting up

We were having generator problems again - both the boat generator and the portable Honda, so Bob talked with the mayor and he gave Bob the name of a generator repairman who showed up at the boat an hour after the call and got us straightened out in no time. It is always comforting to hear that engine run.

The mayor then drove Bob and the portable generator over to the Honda repair shop where it was looked over by a mechanic and returned. So we are now back in business.

Halloween night the town closed off a section of Main Street to cars for Trick-or-Treating. All the children on the boats at the dock, rummaged for the makings of a costume. This one was made from a king size bed sheet and duck tape!


There is a boy named Chris in there


Pirate Dad and the Pirate Twins!


The kids are all set to attack the town

We planned to leave this morning, but the weather is just to windy to go. In addition, a bridge we have to go under is closed when the winds are this high - so makes sense to stay put today. We may end up here again tomorrow as well - we will just have to see. Time to round up some other boaters for a game of Mexican Train Dominoes!

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